Skiing is one of the most popular kinds of winter holidays. Active classes are easy to master a newcomer, but before the workout it is important to know how to choose skis. Poorly selected equipment leads to injuries, extensive costs and can completely repel the desire to ride. In our article we will tell you how to choose ski those who are just starting to comprehend the winter view of the rest. Video and special tables will facilitate the selection of equipment.
Why it is important to choose the right skis for different types of skiing
There are two types of skiing in skiing: skne and classic. Under each type a separate type of ski is selected. Additional pay attention to your height, ski length, rigidity, boot size.
For classic stroke characteristic:
Slide skis parallel to each other;
Repulsion from snow with legs and manual sticks;
The relative simplicity of movement, in view of which the method is easy to master the newcomer.
A variety of classic stroke is dancepolling. The trips style implies repulsion only with their hands, which greatly loads the muscles of the bark, shoulders and forearms. The method will suit those who are badly holding a balance, but well developed physically.
The ski running style is characterized by an increased riding speed, but more energy-efficient and more difficult for beginners due to high technicality. Feet change alternately as when walking on ordinary ice skates.
What skis choose - classic, skate or combined
When approaching the question, how to choose cross-country skiing based on the ride style, you need to consider:
1. For the classic stroke, special classic models are needed, in them a large ski length, which provides a quick speed of movement. Since skis do not intersect together, their length is limited only to the convenience for a skier according to its growth. For walking with such equipment, a formed skiing (two in-depth tracks in the snow) will be required.
2. The skate move implies the presence of cross movements, where long skiing can be caught by each other and lead to a drop of an athlete. Here you need to pay attention to short skate models.
3. Combined variety or universal cross-country skiing are more suitable for skate style, as they are supplied with not very long shears. They are good and with a classic walk, however, due to constructive features, they can slip with jogs.
For quiet walks on snow valleys, it is recommended to choose classic ski models. If you are planning to seriously engage in sports discipline, you should pay attention to the skate or combined models.
Classic Ski: Pluses and Features
The main advantage of the model range is well suited for beginners who do not have any experience of skating. Recommended for use on a good track specially prepared for walking or skating for the purpose of physical recovery. Of the features:
Do not exceed 207 cm long, equipped with a bent toe and notches to control slip;
The rigidity of the skis is medium or below the average, which allows to emphasize the weight of the runner on the middle of the ski during the impetus;
Characterized by a wide selection of colors and models, refer to a universal price group - newbies can choose economical models, for professionals there are varieties with fifumes, air canals and other features at a higher price.
If there are no special notes on skis, together with equipment you need to buy ointment. It is applied to the ski part in contact with snow and improves grip when riding.
Equipment is intended for those who have already mastered the skills of riding a classic course, and want to go to a more professional level. Skis for a walk-style skater have a number of features:
Supplied with stupid mysteries;
Length does not exceed 192 cm;
Distinguished by a high rigidity of the bending in the longitudinal section;
They have a small gap (2-3 mm) in the middle part to increase the efficiency of the shock.
Such skis are not suitable for mountain trails or long-term tourist transitions. They are used on rolled and trained tracks, less often for short plain walks.
According to the design ski, more similar to classic than on the skate. Model universal, among the main advantages:
The length of the polozov reaches 200 cm, which allows you to move around with a skate move, albeit with caution so that the rear parts of the skis do not cling to each other;
The model range includes varieties with a high indicator of rigidity and up to 59 mm wide - this makes it possible to operate equipment in hard conditions (deep snow, no possibility for push);
When choosing ski, it is important to take into account their weight - newcomers are suitable combined models with a mass of 1.3-1.5 kg.
But versatility means that you lose the advantages of the classic ski and the advantages of the skate. The ideal option is to decide with the styles and buy one pair of skis it is under this style, or two pairs of skis under both ski style.
Additional Criding Ski Ski Ski Criteria
In some sports stores there is a division of models for women, men's, children's, tourist and so on. However, these criteria are not dominant. The greater emphasis should be done on the technical characteristics of equipment. For example, before selecting the length of the skis, it is worth considering not only the riding style, but also an increase in an athlete.
How to choose skiing by weight and growth
For each riding style, the parameters are selected separately:
· For the "classics" the length of the splitting of the skis is the magnitude of the total growth of the riding and 25-30 cm on top. That is, for an athlete, 170 cm growth should be sized in a length of 195-200 cm.
· A skiing style requires a skis, the length of which will exceed the growth of an athlete by 10-15 cm. For example, for a girl with an average growth of 165 cm, skis are needed 175-180 cm.
· Combined type of equipment assumes that skis will be 15-20 cm more than the growth of their owner.
Vitely on how to choose skiing in growth, indicated in the table below. The weight of a person is of great importance. Here is the proportion of direct - the more you weigh, the higher the rigging indicator of the ski should be.
How to choose skiing for growth: Table
Information is given to simplify the choice of equipment for adults. The lower growth rates are suitable for children, but they should be paid more attention when determining the size of the boot.
|Growth in cm||Ski, in cm|
|155.||180.||170 - 180.||170.|
|175.||200.||195 - 200.||190.|
|180.||205.||200 - 205.||190 - 195.|
|185.||205 - 210.||205.||195.|
How to determine the rigidity skis
The model range of ski worth up to 5 thousand rubles assumes that the manufacturer takes into account the load of an athlete and its growth, but here the differences in the rigidity rates are minimal. If you buy skis from a more expensive segment, you should use the methods below.
Checking the rigidity ski paper
Put the selected pair of skis on the floor or another flat surface. Stand on them in shoes in such a position as if you are going to start riding. At this time, the seller or other assistant must put an ordinary sheet of paper under ski and spend them from the center to the heel, and then from the center to the sock.
If the sheet does not fit under ski due to severe bending - the model does not fit you, as it is too soft.
If the sheet climb under ski, you need to find the center of gravity (it does not always coincide with the center of the ski itself). In the classic models, the block should be located at a distance of 70 (+/- 5) cm in the direction of the heel to the sock.
Let the assistant move the paper to the block, you need to transfer the entire body weight to the foot with the ski checked. If the seller does not be able to pull out the paper, then the rigidity rate is suitable for your mass.
When checking the skate models, paper should be freely twisted from under the block, as a last resort, it is easy to move.
Now in the skis stores, they are selected on a special stand installed in the hall. Video on how to choose skiing in the store:
Take the desired pair of skis, fold them together with the sliding parties to each other. Determine the center of gravity (under the shoe) and take a pair of one hand 3 cm below the specified level. There should be a gap to 1.5 mm between the classes of classic skis, the space is permissible to 2 mm for skate models. The method of simple and fastest, but not accurate - the width of the gap is easily regulated by the power of compression.
How to choose a boot size
The skate boots are bought with a small margin of size - they must sit tightly, but leave a place for the movement of the fingers, as well as a warm sock. To buy shoes, which sucks a little, since with time the insulation condenses and the shoe will become freer.
When buying a classic shoe, it is permissible to leave the stock by 1 size. Stop's fingers should not tightly rest in the sock so as not to cause discomfort when riding.
Video about the choice of skis
We choose cross-country skiing, ski boots, ski sticks, ski ointment
If you are for the first time on the ski track, or how to spend a minimum of money and get the maximum of pleasure from skiing.
The introductory part. For whom this article is. What is this article for what.
On the Internet there are conferences dedicated to running skiing. Periodically, people who come to these conferences are mainly new to the skiing, ask me questions about the choice of inventory. Over time, answers have accumulated, which wanted to somehow arrange.
This article should answer the main issues that arise from a person who has decided to buy skiing for themselves and their family, and not having a lot of ski experience, with the exception of skiing in physical education lessons at school. As a rule, after that, there is a long time, the inventory, technology, lubricants change, and the person ceases to navigate in this modern abundance. Unfortunately, there are no qualified sellers in stores that are able to thoroughly answer the questions that arise. As I wrote one of those to whom I helped the Council - "was yesterday in the store AAA. None of the question was not a response. They do not have a catalog and consultants." Or "was in the summer in the BBB store. Hour" torture "of the seller. Nothing learned except the price." In addition, one of the tasks of the sellers, no matter what they say is to "promote the buyer to buy a more expensive inventory, it sits in the subconscious even at the most conscientious sellers. Therefore, coming for the purchase, you must clearly know what you need.
I will try to tell how to spend a minimum of money and get the maximum pleasure from skiing for myself and my family.
And still plastic ...
First, lyrical retreat of wooden skis. Now they are mainly sold skis with a plastic sliding surface (although the tree continues to be used in the ski design). A man rushing on wooden skiing, when moving to plastic, usually faces a very unpleasant phenomenon - the strongest return, which turns riding from pleasure to real torment. A man is perplexed - on the woods, I would have long left for n kilometers, and then I was forced to bare my legs, and why I bought this plastic. It is especially offensive if such a person buys plastic skiing, and his child, turning his physical culture lessons for him in a humiliating crawling, forever vaccinating disgust for skiing. What is the matter? The fact is that plastic skis are much more slippery than wooden. Firstly, the tree with friction about the snow is pretty silent, which is practically not happening with plastic, and then remember how the wooden skis is smeared - holding ointment over the entire length, only under the blocking ointment was added to the ointment. These two factors ensured the lack of a tangible return. Now, buying plastic skis, many people naively believe that they do not need to be smeared, or put the ointment under the block, corresponding to the temperature on the thermometer outside the window, as used to smear wood. So, the recoil on plastic skiing can be avoided, but we will talk about it in more detail in the section dedicated to the lubricant. And on the sliding qualities of plastic is much better than wood. In addition, the plastic sliding surface is much more durable. And if on wooden skis do not stand and try to go out in the plus temperature, then on the plastic your season will be able to become much longer. So do not be afraid to buy plastic skis.
Start with classics
When choosing a ski, much depends on what level you ride, and what style are going to mainly run, classic or skate. Unfortunately, different styles require various inventory. There are so-called "universal" skis, but if you choose their length and stiffness optimal for classic stroke, then the skate will ride on them, let's say it is inconvenient. In addition, the question of changing the lubrication system will rise - the classic block is compressed by the ones in the ointments, and in order for the ointment longer to hold, the shoe will usually be burned. The skaters require a smooth sliding surface along the entire length, and is entirely lubricated with sliding lubricants (paraffins). And the classic lubricate the block of paraffin is contraindicated. If then on this paraffin (or even his remnants) to put the ointment, it will very quickly come down. In general, it is not necessary to combine incomplete. (But at the same time it is not necessary to shine from the word "universal" - it is completely normal skiing, just select the length and rigidity, respectively, the riding style).
Therefore, if there is a desire to try both styles and allow funds, it is better to take two sets, and if you do not allow, stop the classics. The horse requires widely trained trails, and there are few of them. And the skiing for the classics people paves in any forest or park. That is, there are many times more sites for skiing. We still note that the prepared skate tracks are laid most often on a complex relief with large rates and descents - on hills and ravines, and are designed for prepared athletes. This route began to overcome the newcomer, you can "get up" after the second-third lift. And the family on such a track is not dragged with you. (If there is a good (and simple) track next to you, consider you that you are lucky. In this case, the skate style is necessary to try.)
Amateur (mass) ski universal, and are suitable for most weather conditions. They use cheaper materials. Therefore, they are a little harder. For example, if the weight of a racing ski pair is about 1 kg, then amateur weigh an average of 1.4 - 1.5 kg. The inexpensive extruded plastic of the sliding surface absorbs less paraffin, and, accordingly, the lubricant is not so long on the ski. But it does not matter if your usual "norm" does not exceed 10-15 km. As it is written in the article by Ivan Kuzmina "Parents of the younger skiers" in LS No. 8, it is believed that the weight of the ski defines 60% of the sliding ski properties, 20% are determined by the material, condition and structure of the ski sliding surface and the last 20% are determined by the ski lubrication. Therefore, successfully pick up for your weight, you will get excellent running quality, even if their sliding surface is not made from the most expensive plastic.
Another argument in favor of inexpensive skis - If you are mostly walking through the forest with your family, then such skis will serve you faithfully for many years. And if you want to improve as a skier, and buy yourself racing models, then these simple skis will remain on the first and last snow, according to which the expensive skis sorry.
There are skis with a notch under the block. They seem to be well kept on soft snow. And attractive the fact that, as buyers, they do not need to smear them. (In fact, they still need to be lubricated - the manufacturers are recommended). But I would not advise such if I just don't want to mess with lubricant at all. Why? First, in the running qualities the usual is certainly better. And secondly, skiing without notches is universal. The notch will work well on medium-soft skiing, but not on a rigid rigid (or ice) and not on loose. And ordinary skis can be easily adjusted to the changed conditions by changing the computers and changes in the length of the lubricated pad. In addition, over time, the notch will be sealed, and the hold properties will deteriorate. But in general, to take or not take skiing with a notch - this is a matter of taste.
How to choose ski
As written above, the weight of the deflection of 60% determines the driving ski quality. Therefore, the selection of ski on this parameter is the main thing in the process of choice. Weight deflection or rigidity of individual ski parts over its length determine the distribution of the pressure skis pressure under the weight of the skier. This characteristic is also called the Ski Epura. Here is a typical picture for classic skis (Atomic Arc Cap Classic K, drawings taken from www.ernordic.com):
|A typical picture for classic skis. The top is shown the pressure distribution when sliding on two skis, there is no pressure under the block. Below shows the distribution of pressure when the push. Where it is written "Ski's sock" and "Ski's heel" a ski load is not very large. And in the area of the ski pads, the maximum pressure on the snow is created.|
At the top of the figure, the pressure distribution on the snow is shown at an increasing load at about half weight skier when the skier rides two skis. At the bottom, the distribution of pressure during the push of one foot when the shoe with the maase is pressed into the snow. For skating skis, the picture will be different, since they should not have a pressure maximum under the block (Atomic ATC Racing Skate):
|Typical picture for ski ski. As you can see, the ski ski load is distributed over the surface completely differently - it falls into two powerful "bulb", while the middle part of the ski is almost not loaded with the jog.|
That is, skate skiing should be tougher classic for the same skier.
A good ski must bend evenly, proportional to the appiled effort. Otherwise, excessive pressure on the snow may appear in separate ski areas, which will lead to the braking of the ski and the rapid grease in these zones. Here are drawings from Article V.Smoljanov (LS № № ...).
|An example of a bad ski that has bending in the longitudinal direction|
You can check the Ski Eppure only on rather complex equipment. Therefore, in the store you will have to use other techniques, indirectly determining the quality of the weight of the ski weight.
So, you came to the store ... Suppose you have already decided on the style of riding, a price range and, possibly, ski models.
The procedure may be:
1. Look a few pairs of ski suitable lengths. For classical ski, the length should be an increase in the skier + 25-30 cm, for the ski skiers + 10-15 cm.
|Example Bad Skiing with Screw|
2. Check the ski geometry. (If they are curves, then further procedures do not make sense, set them aside). At the same time, do not rely entirely on the reputation of the famous brand. "Trust but verify". Look along the skis from the sliding surface. Ski should not be curved in the longitudinal direction (the grooves should be direct), there should be no "screw" - the line across the sock and the heels of the sliding surface must be parallel.
Turn the ski sideways, look along - the sliding surface must have a uniform smooth bend without bugs, depressions or sharp gerbins.
3. Select skiing in hardness. For the classics, the most correct definition of stiffness is: Find approximately the centers of gravity for each ski (keep skiing with two fingers per sidewalls). Put them in parallel to each other on the smooth floor of the sliding surface (if they allow it to do in the store, just in case, take the newspaper). If skiing with a straight geometry, i.e. Ski width is different along the entire length (not Side Cut), and the sidewall is flat (skis are made not using the CAP technology (CAP)), then check the floor just - put a ski on the side, it should fit tightly to floor Then stand on skiing with two legs so that the centers of gravity occurred at the beginning of the shoes' socks. And then quoting the "short course of discipline Skiing" RGAFK: "Suitable skiing, taking into account the weight of the athlete, those skiing are considered to be the sliding surfaces of which under the cargo part (distance 3-5 cm below the heel of the boot and 10-15 cm above the mounting (which means about 20 cm from Sock shoe)) Do not touch the floor when the athlete stands on them with both legs. In the case when the skier transfers the body weight on one of the skis, the entire sliding surface of the ski should be seamless to the floor. " In practice, this is checked simply - one person stands on skis, and the second leads under the block with a thin sheet of paper. When you are standing on both skiing, the places where the piece of paper stops moving determine the blocks of the pads. If you transfer the weight of one ski, the paper under the shoe should not move, the ski will admit it to the floor. Then move the weight on the second ski, it should also press the sheet to the floor. A check with a sheet of paper can be made to one person, just follow the weight to be evenly distributed on both skis when defining the length of the pad.
If you apply this method, the conditions do not allow, then it is possible to approximately define the rigidity like this: carefully fold the skis to the sliding surface to each other and compress them with one hand 3 cm below the center of gravity. Between the skiing there should be a gap of about 1-1.5 mm (the power of the brush approximately corresponds to the weight of a person, but it is not very convenient to squeeze the skis by one hand). Just keep in mind that the power of the brush does not necessarily correspond to your weight (for example, if you regularly exercise a brush with an expander).
In large stores, there are some special stands for checking the skis. In this case, you can ask to use such a stand, saying your weight.
The famous skier, world champion Alexander Zavyalov describes another "people's" way to determine rigidity. The average person (not a gymnast and not a rod) must turn the skis to the full touch of the sliding plastic under the block. If it does not specifies, then skiing is definitely tough for him.
For Konkovoy Ski Clearance when compressed by one hand should be more - 1.5 - 2 mm. And if you determine on the floor with a piece of paper, then under the boots, a piece of paper should move a little or easy to pull out if you transferred one skiing weight.
If you failed to pick up the classic skiing stiffness - those that there were soft, you can calmly look at skis slightly longer. As a rule, the longer the skis, the more tougher. For example, Fisher's firm in mass models generally passed to a direct dependence of the ski length from the weight of the skier. Of course, with the skates, such a number will not pass, and for classic skiing the length is not so critical.
Please note that beginners and children can be taken relatively soft skiing, because without possessing good technique, they will not be able to fully push into tough skiing. (Meaning soft within reasonable limits, that is, a little softer than the described techniques, and not those that can be squeezed by two fingers.)
Then check the uniform of the ski compression. Thus, you indirectly check the quality of the weight of the deflection, which mainly determines the driving ski quality. Squeezing with two hands 3-5 cm below the center of gravity, look at the uniformity of compression - the gap from above and below should decrease in proportion to the effort and evenly. Usually ski socks are a little softer heels, so first the gap between the skis socks decreases faster than between the heels, it is normal. As a result, the latter should disappear under the block, approximately at the point of compression. At the same time, skiing should fit tightly to each other throughout, the gap between them should not be. Ski socks as compression should not disperse. In addition, each of the ski should bend equally. (It happens that skis are not chosen by stiffness and with full compression, one slightly flashed, and the other curved.) After the flexion, you should have the feeling that the nasal and tail part of the skis corresponds to the definition of "elastic".
Here is a useful excerpt from the article by I.Kuzmina "parents of the younger skiers" in LS No. 8: Typical cases not very good ski:
- Ski is compressed with a noticeable effort from the very beginning.
- Ski first clenched very easily, and then the "stop" comes, in such a skiing, with a repeated piece of compression, you can hear a knock in front of the block.
- With a strong compression, the ski owner in contact under the block.
- With a strong compression, the owner under the block remains a gap of more than 2 mm (except for skis on the ice). (It meant here in view of the compression with one hand).
(In general, when selecting skis, it is preferable to first use compression with hands - so you can quickly select several suitable steam, at the same time checking the uniformity of compression. And then, if you can finally, select your pair using a piece of paper, or checking them more pickily.)
4. Check the coincidence of gravity centers. Determine the center of gravity of each ski from the pair. Then fold the skis together, the heels of skis on the same line. Centers of gravity ideally must coincide, but the discrepancy between about 1-1.5 cm is not deadly. (When you put fasteners, you will have to determine the center of gravity more precarious, for example, putting a ski on the back of the knife or end of a thin line.)
5. Check the sliding surface. It should not be concave or curved in the diameter, but must be flat, with the exception of the groove.
Otherwise, ski preparation will be very difficult - the iron and scraper will not fit the entire surface of the ski. (Small deviations can be corrected. To do this, skid will need to be bored, which requires experience and skiing machine.) To check, attach a flat object at the beginning, in the middle and at the end of the ski, it must fit tightly to the sliding surface.
There should be no explicit and large damage to plastic - pit, bugro, detachment, etc. . Small flaws - small scratches, burrs are not so important as weight deflection (EPUR or rigidity). You can close your eyes (and you can fix it). In addition, skis should not be completely smooth. Smooth ski slides worse. Therefore, almost all skis have a "structure" on a sliding surface - roughness specially applied in the factory. Borrowers at the edges of the new skis are removed with small skirt with light movements from the sock to the heel of the ski. And scratches will appear anyway after the first months of skiing.
|Check the sliding surface of the ski. It should not be concave or curved in the diameter, but must be flat, with the exception of the groove|
6. After a pair of skis successfully passed these checks, you can finally look at and on their finish.
If you, nevertheless, could not find a suitable pair in this store or among these models and grades, please note the following:
The STC factory uses a light wood type of poplar or aspen to produce skis, and the power load is mainly laminate plate and fiberglass. Therefore, skis are basically soft. When I pushed myself under the weight of 60 kg inexpensive training classic Skis production STC (under Madshus brand), I tried more than 15 pairs, and stopped on one, which was longer than you need to 5 cm, which had a small plastic bubble on a skis to wear, and several cosmetic defects. But the stiffness they had something. In the end, I took off the bubble, and the skis turned out very successful. Stc also produces cheap skiing under the brands of Peltonen and Karhu. In addition, the lyric names like Viking, Sable, Magnum also hide skiing STC.
Skis Karelia (Sorsu) and Tis usually robustly, the tree in them is used early, but these skis are harder than the production of STC in the same price range. Among these brands, you will rather pick up skis if you have weight above average. Tisa release of 2001 was done very culturally, but it is expensive.
If the means allow you to safely bore the products of famous brands - Fisher, an atomic, Madchus, Rossinol, and the like. Among the ski worth 80-100 dollars less variation of parameters and is easier to choose. But all the main stages of choice must be repeated with such skis.
Selection of ski boots
If you allow the means, then take boots on the Rotafella NNN or Salomon SNS sole. It is much more convenient than old space systems. Of course, fastening these systems are not cheaps. But they are worth it. If it seems to you that your budget will not allow you to spend 40-50 dollars on racing mounts, then keep in mind that there are excellent walking attachments that cost $ 20-25. The price range for shoes extends about $ 50 for the tourist boots to about $ 200 for racing boots. As in the case of skiing, tourist boots are universal, and made of cheaper materials. Actually, the speed of running on skis boots have a little influence, so it is not necessary to chase the top models. But if you intend to try yourself in a skate style, then take models for the skate, with a high rigid cuff covering ankle. Or combined, similar to the look at the skate, but with the ability to remove the plastic cuff, after which they can be running with a classic. Specialized models of the middle class will cost more expensive than tourist boots. When choosing, pay attention primarily to the convenience of the boot. Different manufacturers apply a different block, some can fit perfect for your feet. You can take the shoes of models of past seasons - they are much cheaper with almost the same quality, except that not all sizes remain. For riding through the forest, the boots of the tourist class are suitable, for example, Rossinol X1 - X4, or Alpina and Salomon of the same level. Take only mounts for the appropriate sole (NNN or SNS). The shoe with such a sole is essentially only one disadvantage. If we walk in them on asphalt, then the plastic soles on the shoe's sock is erased almost to a metal bracket, which is included in the fasteners. The bracket will most likely not be able to fall out - it is quite deeply embedded in the sole, but the strength characteristics of the sealing will deteriorate, and the trade type of the boot will lose. Folk craftsmen use various ways to protect expensive shoes if there is no possibility to wear them next to the skiing. One of the options are rubber galoshes worn on shoes. Better galoshes with a soft cloth inside. Just rubber leave traces on a light boot or skip paint. When I come to the place, I remove the galoshes, I put them in a plastic bag so that the snow would not be stuffed, and he buried in the snow under some Christmas tree. On the way back wearing. The second method is described in LS No. 16. A piece of rubber tube / hose with an inner diameter of approximately the corresponding diameter of the bracket and the length of the open part of the open part of the bracket is cut over the helix and put on (winding) on the bracket. Before dressing skis, the tube is removed and put in pocket.
Selecting ski sticks
Most modern sticks are made from carbon fiber and fiberglass in different proportions. Sticks out of 100% carbon fiber lungs and hard, but stand several times more expensive than fiberglass (up to 200 dollars). Accordingly, 100% fiberglass sticks are not so tough, it is easier to be and broken, and weigh a little more. Middle class sticks can be made from a mixture of fiberglass and carbon fiber. The greater the percentage of fiberglass, the sticks are cheaper. Fiberglass are quite suitable for children and beginners who do not have a lot of power and weight.
Plastic (composite) sticks sometimes break. This can occur when falling on a stick or with a plot for a stick with all weights with a loss of equilibrium, the truth is not always. I had to break cheap fiberglass sticks even a strong push - I didn't get an effort exactly in the axis of the stick - and ready.
If your weight is large, then take more durable sticks with a large percentage of carboy. Or aluminum. They have little common with those aluminum rush sticks with large rings, which were produced by the years of EDAK 10-20. Modern aluminum sticks are as the same as composite sticks.
The domestic sticks of the production of STC have proven well (they are also produced as inexpensive Madshus, Karhu - Different stickers, see http://stc-ski.ru/content/view/29/45/lang.ru/) and UEKHK (Ural Electric Electric Chemical Combine). For an amateur, also a good choice - Balakovo sticks, they cheaper, but they have good quality (produced under the Volzhanka brand). Decent domestic sticks stand from 300-400r.
First, a pair of words for quite intense in lubricant skis. Lubricants are two main species: sliding lubricants and lubrication. For the classic stroke, the nasal and heel of the skis are lubricated with sliding lubricants, usually paraffins. And the central part of the ski (block) is lubricated by the ointment, so that there is no return. The length of the pad is about 50 cm from the heel of the shoe put in the mount, forward to the ski wear. For beginners, you can lengthen the block for another 10-15 cm for skiing. (I was heard to people recommended that there was no return to smear the back (!!!) Ski.)
|Block classic skiing|
Skiing for skate strokes are lubricated along the entire length of sliding lubricants.
The choice and purchase of lubricants and lubrication tools depends on how you are going to ride. If the main goal is hikes on weekends, then the arsenal of funds and, most importantly, the cost of time to prepare ski is greatly reduced. If you are going to chase, then you have to invest money and precious time.
If you read the materials of SWIX or other firms dedicated to the training of skis, you can estimate how much time will require Mining Professional preparation of one pair: cleaning with soft paraffin (application, removal by plastic scraper, sweeping with a brush), then overlay 1-2 layers of weather paraffin (applying, cooling the skis to room temperature for at least 10 minutes), removal of plastic scraper, loss of brush, polishing) . That is, half an hour you will mess around with one pair. Plus, additional "pleasures" is the smell (however, non-mesmer), scraped paraffin on the floor. If you have carpets on the floor - the end of the carpets. We prepared a skis once with a friend at home, turned the Palace, then, of course, everyone was removed, but some remains of paraffin, apparently stayed on the floor, and Palace began to slide wildly ... I remember the good words of his wife ... In short, you need a place Where to turn around and do not interfere with a minimum of 30-40 minutes, otherwise the remains of paraffin will be separated throughout the apartment, especially in winter, when, due to dryness and static electricity, these residues stick to everything to adhere to everything. It happens that while you are with the preparation, the home disappears all the desire to ride. This is only for the "turned" fanatics skiers. Fortunately, there are alternative options, cheap and not bad according to the results, they will be written about them in the following sections.
In order to have an idea of the process of training skis, read Article A. Gushin "How to prepare skis?" From the magazine "Ski Race" №5. Or take in the Fisher's store Fisher Brochure SWIX Nordic Ski Preparation.
Ski Mazi Slip
Slip lubricants are of different types. Paraffins are most often used, and both accelerators (powders or compressed), emulsions, pasta, and the like are used in professional sports. Such lubricants are quite expensive, but spent fast enough. Therefore, if you are not going to chase professionally, then do not take expensive import lubricants. In most cases, domestic is not worse, and often better (except that some are faster than imported). The shelf life of paraffins is almost unlimited. But there is no point in taking a lot. And many different brands and types, too, do not need a choice of the problem of choice - which is better for today's weather ... in professional lubricant it is solved by a ribbon of paraffins, but lovers to torment themselves with the choice of anything.
If the climate is in the area where you live wet, then you better buy fluorinated paraffins. For example, for Moscow, where the humidity of the air in the winter is most often higher than 50%. If humidity, as a rule, is below 50%, then paraffins will be performed without fluorine.
From inexpensive domestic, you can mention Paraffins Uktus, Ray, Wiste, Mvis, Fest. For Moscow, you can take the MWISA Marathon kit - it will suit you. (These lubricants roll back just in the Moscow region, and they go well there). It is inexpensive (almost 50-60 rubles), and rolls well in most cases. This is a set of precipitation of paraffins (with a small content of fluorine) to three temperature range. It is still worth getting the tablets - the MVIS accelerator. They have for sunny weather №238 at temperature -9 + 5, keeps up to 100 km. It does not often happen solar weather at which it is really good, but also in a cloudy he will go, though worse. In my opinion, his main advantage for an amateur is the simplicity of application and durability of lubrication. Once I smeared with a cold way - you can ride a month. It costs about 350 rubles, but it is consumed very economically - enough for many years.
For wet climate, fluorinated gels, pastes, sprays or emulsions. They are applied to the moving surface with a cotton swab or spray, dry or heated with a hairdryer, then polished. Quickly and comfortable. Disadvantages: expensive, quickly spent, keep up to 10-15 km.
Ski ointment keeping
Holding ointments are solid (in jars) and liquid (in tubes). Holding ointment must meet two requirements. The first - ointment should allow pushing. With a push under the block, an additional pressure is created on the snow, and the snow crystals are included in the layer of the ointment, skiing "sticks" to the snow, which makes it possible to push. After the progress of the crystals should get out of ointments, which will allow ski slide. When the skier slides on one ski, the pressure under the block is also present, but at the same time the ointment should allow sliding on one ski and "brake" only at the moment of jolts. Therefore, the selection of optimal maintaining ointments, providing the best combination of holding and sliding, in professional sports is not easy. The alternation of layers of different ointments is used, the imposition of them in checkers and other techniques.
Fans can be smeared easier. In order not to fool your head, I will bring the most simple rule: for most minus weather conditions and inexpensive maze (uktus, MVIS, WISE, inexpensive (without fluorine) Imported SWIX, Start, Rode, etc.) need to put the ointment, lower temperature limit The range of which is 3-4 degrees above the current temperature. For example, if now -5, then put ointment -1 + 1 or -2-0. Since the state of snow, which means the holding, depends not only on temperature, but also from humidity, wind, old or new snow, and even the region, always take a plastic trinket with them (the so-called "tube") and the ointment is more warm and colder than that that was smeared at home. If you did not get into the ointment, if it is overly slowing down - put the colder on top, it does not hold well - more warm. (To improve the hold, you can also lengthen the lubricant zone forward to the ski to wear.) Larzing - a couple of minutes, and you will be happy to ride all the remaining time. Since the snow is different everywhere, for a specific region, this rule can be adjusted in terms of the ointway temperature shift value relative to the air temperature. Do not be afraid to experiment, and you will quickly detect the optimal option.
For an amateur, there are enough 3-4 jars of ointment, overlapping the temperature range from +3 to -15 degrees. If you are making at home, before overlaying the new Mazi, it is advisable to remove the remains of the old ointment with a plastic scraper. The ointment is better in 2-3 thin layers, rubbing each plug.
Liquid ointments are more often called clisters. A thin strip clip is applied on both sides of the groove and smoothes with a plastic scraper (it's hard to do it in the cold, better at home).
Claster may be needed for positive temperatures. But it is very dirty. Before putting skis into a cover when you go rolling, wrap them in polyethylene so as not to spoil the case. In addition, after riding, the clister hides and if the skis stand vertically, he begins to slowly flush down. So after riding the clister, it is better to immediately remove with a washing (gasoline, or even a scraper and a dry cloth).
At minus temperature, solid ointments usually work well. But under certain weather conditions, you may encounter some problems:
- Podlip. When transitional temperatures (about 0 degrees) and with fresh, especially with falling, snow you may encounter a "podlip" - the snow will adhere to ointment and turn into a thick snowball under the block.
- Oblaning (frozen) ointment. Under negative temperatures (more often when transition -2 -0, but it happens at -25) to begin "icing" ointments - snow crystals instead of completely leaving the ointment layer after jolts, they begin to rush, leaving tips in ointment, and on Her surface appears ice crust. It is more often due to the fact that the ointment is softer (warmer) than you need. It can also happen if you start riding on immediately after leaving the house when the skin is still warmer than the ambient air .. If the temperature of the water is below 0 degrees, but the snowflakes on the ski turn into water - to ride early. In addition, the uncomfortable ointment can quickly get away. Give ski (and ointment) to cool to the ambient temperature of 10-15 minutes.
- The state of snow in the ski door and outside it can be different, therefore, the ointment, which allowed to roll in the skiing normally, when leaving it can be very slow down. You can also feel the difference in holding and slide when skating on solar sites and in the shade, for example, in the forest.
Necessary tools for the preparation of skis and their substitutes
Now about the required set of tools. If you see the SWIX guide (or another firm) to prepare a ski, it creates the impression that the skiing needs to additionally purchase a whole suitcase of all kinds of tools and materials. For training skis, it is really necessary. But the amateur can do with a much more modest set of tools.
|So you can sharpen a plastic scraper|
If you take skis with a racing base (so sometimes called a sliding surface), which is made of high molecular weight sintered (sintered) plastic, then the main tool is a ski iron, the rest can be depicted from the remedies. The fact is that the domestic iron has a very large hysteresis loop at the thermostat - the paraffin is smaller, then it melts barely. And at high temperatures, you automatically continue the base (sliding surface), that is, we write the pores, and the paraffin ceases to be absorbed into the database. And the meaning of buying expensive skis disappears (see Article Steve Article "Use Iron Right" in LS No. ...). A good skiing iron can be bought for 60-70 dollars.
New skis, regardless of whether you will then use hot paraffins or not, all the same, it is better to process the first time using an iron. In the extreme case, you can do the household iron (only good do not ruin, take the old land, without holes in the sole). In this case, be careful - have a large wet rag at hand. If suddenly paraffin smoke - you can quickly reduce the temperature of the iphum sole, attaching a rag to it, and avoid the plastic facing. Primary processing is performed by soft plus paraffin without fluorine, the melting point of which is 65-75 degrees, which also reduces the risk of the face. Set the iron thermostat to a minimum in which the paraffin melts normally, and begin to warm the ski, smoothly and without pressure by moving the iron from the sock to the heel of the skis. Carefully make sure that it does not overheat, and to be a paraffin layer between the iron and the ski. Household iron is better sideways, a wide part of the sole. This option is suitable if you do not plan to constantly apply paraffin iron.
The following are the basic tools used in the preparation of skis, and considers the feasibility of their acquisition by lovers.
- Plastic scraper for removing surplus paraffin. You can buy a company for $ 3-4, and it can be replaced by a debris of a transparent school line, plexiglas, etc. 2-4 mm thick. In this case, you need to do the following: put on a flat surface fine skin with abrasive up, and firing on the skin a ruler so that the faces are sharp and straight, and there were no burrs and irregularities. In addition, the corners of the line cover on the skin of the semicircle (the edges should remain sharp). Pick these corners under the grooves of your skis to then remove the paraffin from the groove. If you have several pairs of skis, then driving the corners for different pairs. Look at the store on branded scrapers to represent what should end up.
- Nylon brush is used to remove paraffin residues after removing its scraper. If you use the hot apparent paraffin, then the brush is needed quite hard. We had to use household brushes like "ironing" or brush for hands with hard nylon bristles. "Sand is an unimportant OPS replacement," but you can also remove the surplus of paraffin.
- Rough Fibertex (Fibertex), for example, SWIX T265 - is needed in the preparation of new ski for removing the pile from the plastic remaining after the machine grinding of the sliding surface. (In fact, the residual pile will remove after several months of skiing). Standing is not too expensive. Approximately the same type of economic abrasive plates may not contain such an abrasive, and only add a pile. But there are almost complete analogues. But buy it or not buy it ... Probably not necessarily.
- Fiberlene (Fibermen) - nonwoven material, applied to final polishing skis. In general, it is not necessary, the skis can be polished with an old kapron stocking. Or kosk felt. Finally, old woolen wear.
- SWIX 17 sandpaper No. 100 is used for sanding pads for classic skis so that the ointment is better kept. Need not. Any household skook will fit the appropriate grain. In general, it is necessary to hide under the block if you run more than 20-30 km or on ice.
- The SWIX T-89 razor scraper is used to remove the pile - the lover is not needed.
- Metal cycle. It is unlikely that you will cycle yourself - the process requires skill, and, most importantly, a skiing machine in which ski is hard. Modern skiing are produced with a printed structure, cyclish which is not worth it. The cycle is needed except for removing the deck plastic. And spoil ski when cyclishing is easier simple - the hand shook - and here is a wave or scratch. Lovers are not needed.
- Pumping, used to apply the structure to the sliding surface. Lovers are not needed. The universal structure applied at the factory is sufficient.
- Copper brush, needed for removing frosty paraffins. If you are ready to come to terms with a slight glide deterioration, using warmer paraffin, then not needed. If you are applied hard frosty paraffin, you have to take. Or use a gel or an accelerator to frost, applied by a very thin layer, and not requiring the use of a rigid brush.
- Washing, used to remove keeping ointments under the block. Also fit for flushing a sliding paraffin, if it is not possible to use hot spin cleaning. Preferably. It is generally useful in the everyday thing - that just did not have to reproach her.
- Rubbing (cork) is used to spitting those kept ointments. Plastic is better suited for ointments. Cork can be used to apply accelerators. It will be necessary.
Additional ski accessories
Another desired thing is a ski case. First, there will be where to store skis, and, most importantly, you do not disappear while holding the ointment while you get to the ski. Employed it from clothes without a solvent or washing is very difficult. Good domestic covers cost from 200 rubles. Take a cover for 2-3 pairs. It is fed and skiing and sticks.
Not bad to take ski ligaments on velcro. Less risk that the sliding surface of the ski during transportation will be damaged by sticks or fastenings of another pair. If you go to the skiing near, then in this case you can carry skis without a cover. About skiing bonded with ligaments, it is harder to get dirty. Tie skis in such a way that the soft laying of the ligament is between the sliding surfaces of the ski, they should not touch.
Rags. For ski processing, you will need old cotton rags. They wipes dry sole after applying paraffins, scrapers and other tools are cleaned, the holding ointment is removed using the washing, the remains of paraffin are launched after passing the scraper and brushes, and so on. Even polish ski after applying paraffins, at worst, you can rag without strong pressing.
How to store skis
Since in most models ski, especially massive, wood is used, then you should not store skis near heat sources or on a sunny balcony. My buddy put on the summer case with skis on the glazed balcony on the sunny side. And one pair of skis "led", it's good that she was inexpensive. Lubricants also do not need to store near heat sources or in the sun.
Simplified ski lubrication technologies
We can read about the fineness of lubricants with a hot way (using a ski iron) in the article Steve Paulina "Use the Iron right" from the LS No. ... In particular, it does not recommend the use of household irons for this purpose - you can easily overheat the plastic expensive skis. But you can apply sliding lubricants and without an iron.
You can try this method (experimented): Take a metal bucket with a lid, say, liter. It should be not enhanced, but a purely metal bucket with a smooth smooth bottom, better aluminum - he has a high thermal conductivity. Squeeze water, pour 2/3 of the bucket, no longer need to accidentally not scream. Close the wedge with a lid so as not to burn the ferry. Such a combination will replace the iron when using soft paraffins with primary ski processing or with a lubricant to heat and light minus. As a rule, in such paraffins, the melting point is significantly lower than 100 degrees Celsius. Paraffin should be pre-grapeted with a thick layer on the sliding surface, and the ski should lie horizontally, up the sliding surface, for example, on two tabretes.
Boiling water and well-conductive warm buckets have enough to melt the slight paraffin. Of course, frosty paraffin do not make it, but there will be a 100% warranty from the base of the base. As cool, replace the water. Make a few slow passes from the sock to the end of the ski. But consider this method there is a significant drawback - you can accidentally turn the bucket and scream. Therefore, for permanent use, it is better to get a ski iron.
Another way. Paraffin can be applied using intensive rubbing. First of all, clean the ski. If the ski is a clear layer of old paraffin, it is easy to pass a plastic scraper and / or a nylon brush. Pure ski Sutitate a very thin solid layer of paraffin bars (it is convenient to control looking at the ski shoe from the window). Not even necessarily a completely solid layer. Then we take the cork trord and intensively rub in both sides of 1-2 minutes. The heat released is enough for partial paraffin moisten to the base. Then walk a slightly brushed movement from the sock to the heel of the ski. Time costs are minimal. Mud is practically no, the machine is not required. On the usual snow will hold at least 10 km.
There is such a thing - thermostystka from the company Toko is a piece of tight felt with a small structure pasted on spongy rubber. Such a combination allegedly distinguishes sufficient heat to apply accelerators with a cold way. Immoved by insole from a dense synthetic felt, wrapped around a small flat rusties. Also can also be used as an alternative to cork tritis when applying paraffins with a cold way.
What ski ointments to buy ski preparation
Depending on the level of your preparation and thickness of your wallet, three sets of lubricant can be distinguished, which are sufficient for riding.
|Solid Holding Ointment|
This kit is quite enough for comfortable walks on the forest on plastic skiing without returns and adhesion. It is not necessary to buy paraffins, irons, brushes and other tools. It is quite enough to buy a set of keys (for example, housing or hitch) and smear skis only under the block, rubbing them with a plug so that there is no return. For walks, believe me, this is quite enough, slide skis will be without paraffin.
This is what is part of the required minimum set:
3 - 4 jars (briquette) Mazi. Overlapping the temperature range from 0 to -15 degrees (adjust depending on the region), and one cork or synthetic grill.
Ointment and Rubrota will cost you at 100 - 200 rubles. If you allow money, buy an additional plastic scraper (about 90 rubles) and a bottle of corporate wash (about 300 rubles). However, about the scraper and its substitutes were written above. You can do without cleaning. A generally without that, that is, remove the old ointment scraper and replacing it with a kerosene or gasoline bottle. (Clean the skis though that, in general, it is absolutely optional, you can a piece of cotton wool moistened in gasoline. And the main "domestic" dignity of the washing is in the absence of a strong smell.)
Please only keep in mind that with such a lubricant (solid ointments) you should not go on a ski at a plus temperature, because when plus you will need liquid holding ointments (clisters).
|Liquid Holding Ointment|
This kit will allow you to competently and fully care for skiing. This set for the eyes is enough not only for comfortable riding in the forest in anyone Weather, but also to participate in most mass ski races of the "skiing of Russia". It includes the same thing that in the minimum set, plus a set of inexpensive paraffins, iron, a brush, a wock bank, a plastic scraper, a set of inexpensive liquid ointments. Such a kit will cost a more substantial amount - from 3000 rubles. It is highly desirable to add a special skiing machine to this kit - it will allow you not only very well prepare your skis, but also to receive pleasure from this process. (The machine, if desired, can be made from the girlfriend, trimming the tourist rug or something like that, and several glands and screws to secure skis).
This kit may need enough advanced and prepared skier, so largely the following information may be already known from previous publications in LS, from the coach or from some other sources. Nevertheless, we also give this list. To all of the above, you can add a set of keys With a fluorine content (solid and liquid), as well as paraffins With a fluorine content (Such lubricant is particularly effective in high humidity). You can also buy paraffins antistatics (are needed to remove with a sliding surface of the static voltage ski), accelerators (powdered and pill-form pure fluorocarbons), rolling (for application to the sliding surface of the corresponding weather), sprays and emulsions. In addition, keep in mind that advanced skiers try to have in their arsenal of lubricants of different firms, because in different weather, ointment works are often completely different manufacturers. In general, this kit is already for an advanced skier, and its value increases many times compared to the value of the first two sets, combined.
It is useful to read: A. Vertsyshev: We make a cuccant to prepare cross-country skiing. Arich "Tuning" for your shoes: we make customized insoles for your foot in sneakers, ski boots, etc.A. Onishchenko skis: cyclish or paraffin? And. Kuzmin choose children's skiwear. Konovalov Alexander Zavyalov: All about Skiing Fischers. Konovalov Artem Yarovikov: All about madshus ski. Biryukov test ski sticks of the upper levels of 2009-2010 and 2010-2011. Isaev How to smear cross-country skiing? Ski atomic: advises atomic expertgle to buy cross-country skis, ski sticks and ski boots? Where to buy ski clothing and accessories?
Each novice skier faces the difficulties of selection of cross-country skiing. How to choose cross-country skiing? Skate or classic? Or maybe universal? More expensive or cheaper? From the right answer to these questions will depend, love this sport or you will hate.
In this article, tell me how to choose cross-country skis and not turn the purchase process into the headache. How to choose skate and classic skis than they differ and what to pay attention to.
First you need to understand some important points. Buy sports equipment better Maximum quality which can afford your family budget. Even for rare walks with family Do not choose the cheapest skiing . This principle is similar to Choosing a bike or other sports inventory. The miser pays twice - it has long been known for everyone.
From beginners, you can often hear: "I ride 5 times a year, I need the cheapest." Such an installation will spoil the impression of riding and you and your loved ones. Moreover, if ride 5 times a year, it is better to spend this time with pleasure, and not in torment. Of course, the framework on this principle imposes a financial condition, but this is a personal matter of everyone.
One thing is exactly accurate, it is better to buy inventory, Proven brands . They have appropriate quality control and reputation care. Here are brands that we trust and recommend for purchase:
- TISA (belongs to Fischer)
What are the distinguished classic skis from the skate?
First of all, differ Design or, as skiers say, Epura . Ski work depends on this, and the skate and classics it is completely different. Also, for the classics, skis are selected longer, and for the skate - shorter. It is explained by the fact that in skating skiing you need to swing on the parties and do it more conveniently short. In the classics it is better to take skiing more. According to the laws of physics, the longer ski, the less it creates pressure on the snow, the less friction and better slip.
How to work skating ski (SKATE)
As can be seen from the drawing, ski skiing never completely crushed . It works like spring and has maximum pressure points in the sock and heel. In the foreground, the scheme reflects the pressure when setting an athlete at 2-legs. In the distant plan - transfer of weight to 1 leg when renting. The pressure increases significantly on the sock and heel, and almost does not change under the block.
How to work classic ski (Classic)
Classical, on the contrary, fully crushed under the block . It is understandable - under the block there is a holding ointment that does not allow the ski to slide back when repulsion. In the foreground, the skier chart stands on 2 legs, in the background weight is transferred to 1 leg and repelled.
Schemes are clearly shown why on classical skiing it is almost impossible to ride a skate and vice versa.
What is combined skis (Combi)?
Combined skis or just kombi are Classic with increased rigidity . Roughly speaking, these are skiing for the classics, with the ability to sometimes ride a skate. True, there is one minus - for the classic stroke under the block, it is necessary to put ointment of the holding, and this ointment will only interfere with the skate. That is, Combi needs to constantly allege, which delivers inconvenience and take time.
Pros of cobbed ski:
- Savings (no need to spend money on 2 sets)
- A good version of the first skis (in the future you can decide what move is like more)
Cons Combined Ski:
- It is necessary to constantly apply and flush her holding ointment
- do not fully disclose the features of skiing styles
How to choose cross-country skiing beginner?
First you need to decide on how much you want to ride where you will ride and what goals put. Not always there is a prepared wide track for the skate stroke, but the ski access can be natoptan in every park, even in the center of the Big City. If there is no good route nearby, for which they take care, then unambiguously take the classic skis. If the track is near or there is an opportunity to ride it, the choice is more difficult. To simplify, conditionally divide riding for several categories:
- Walking with family and friends
For walks, the main thing is to get pleasure, fresh air, chat, hot tea from thermosos. For such a riding it is better to select Classic . We advise you to pay attention to Mentless skiing - with notches or mooler modules (Skintech, Twinskin and the like). They do not need to smear, so that they do not rolling back, they can be comfortable to stand up and drink tea and much easier to climb uphill without serious physical fitness.
Skates will not suit these purposes. Konk - the energy-consuming type of riding, walking the skate will not work. Without adequate preparation, at the skating course it will not be possible to communicate, necessarily someone from the company will launch, and skating will not last long.
- Regular classes to maintain form and health
Simply put, physical education for health 2-3 times a week. Here you can already connect the skiing and alternate it with classic - for these purposes, combined skis will be suitable. If they do not frighten the minuses of this type of ski, which we listed above. Or purchase skis for each turn from the average price segment.
- Perfection of ski equipment, desire to improve in skiing
If you want to learn how to run on skiing technicially, you need to think about buying 2 pairs - one for each riding style. Combined will not allow setting equipment
- Participation in competitions, desire to raise a sports discharge
For the struggle for the result in competitions, of course, several pairs are needed. At least 1 for each style, ideal - 2-3 for each style. Moreover, skis must be the highest level. It is already worth repelled from how much you are willing to invest in your passion. It is always better to take 2 pairs of good than 4 medium. A special approach is needed to the selection of professional ski. About, how to choose professional skis Read in our separate article.
We recommend reading: How to choose the right ski boots?
What to pay attention to when buying skis? General recommendations
- Geometry . Skis should not be curved in the longitudinal direction (convenient to look at the groove), there should be no screw bend
- Sliding surface Should be smooth, plastic without waves, bugs and pits
- On the laminate should not be Damage . Through them, the moisture can get inside, then the core will swell and come into disrepair
- Must shrink equally and smoothly. Should not be such that one ski shrinks easier, the other is heavier
We recommend reading: Preparation of skate skis .
How to choose skis for classic stroke?
Classic are selected based on the formula: Skier growth + 20-30 cm . If your height is 180 cm, ski choose a length of 200 - 210 cm.
Skiing for classic strokes are selected based on Weight labeling on the surface . Such designations are even on some inexpensive skiing of well-known manufacturers, such as Salomon. In the photo, skis are calculated on the weight of 65-78 kg.
If there are no labels, then you can choose them by weight you can be popular among skiers Paper dough :
- Find the balance point. You can do it by putting a ski on a thin line or knife. If there is nothing at hand, you can ski 2 fingers for the sidewalls and find a point of equilibrium.
- Put skis on a smooth floor and stand up so that the shoes' socks stood on the balance line
- Ask someone to hold a sheet of paper under skiing. You need to stand smoothly by distributing the weight of 2 legs. A4 paper sheet should go about 20-25 cm forward shoe and reach the heel. When transferring weight to one leg, ski should almost pick up a sheet. If you take a narrower sheet of paper, then it should go a little ski.
There are smaller ways to select a ski by weight if the store does not allow a paper test. Such ways are suitable only for the cheapest, on which there is no weight labeling.
Please note that the power of the brush for each person is different and this method of selection cannot be used as the main one.
First way - squeezing one hand :
- Find the balance point
- 5 cm below the balance point squeeze a pair of ski with one hand. There must be a gap of about 1 mm
Another way to which the ski stiffness of our fathers and grandparents were checked:
- Find the balance point
- Squeeze a pair of skis 2 hands below the balance point. Thus, you need to find a couple that you barely comprehend if they are squeezed too easy, then they are soft. If you fail, it is hard.
Last I. The easiest method of selection If I don't want to bother at all. When the weight of the skier is higher than the norm, it is better to take along the upper limit of the length, that is, the skier's growth is + 25-30 cm. When the weight is normal, the average value is selected (height + 20-25 cm), weight below the norm - height + 20 cm) . Also, people with overweight, we recommend paying attention to the combined and pick them in terms of the classics scheme. They differ from classic only increased rigidity.
How to choose skiing for skate stroke?
For the skate stroke, the growth is chosen as follows: Skier growth + 10-15 cm . Short skis are more maneuverable, it is easier to manage them. Therefore, novice is better to take less length if the mass of the body allows. We recommend skiing more thanks (closer to +15 cm).
On some models, as in the case of classic, indicated Skier Weight Range For a specific pair. If there are no such marking, then you can use the same ways as in the selection of classic, except for squeezing with 1 hand. But there are several features:
- On paper dough, when transferring the mass of a skier on one leg, a piece of paper should go free skiing in the fasteners zone
- When squeezing 2 hands should remain a gap of about 2mm
Many specialized stores have special devices for the stiffness of cross-country ski stiffness.
How to choose combined skis?
Combi are selected as a cross between a skate and classics: Skier growth + 15-20 cm . As we have already written above, Combi is classic skiing of high rigidity. Therefore, the selection of combined ski is identical to the selection of classic with a slight bias in the skate. Methods of the selection described in detail above.
We recommend reading: Beach Ski Fastening: Features, Choice, Purchase .
How to choose skiing hardness: video instruction from Fischer
Many specialized stores have devices for cross-country ski stiffness. On the video selection of ski produced on a special booth, but on the smooth floor with the help of a piece of paper, you can conduct a similar test.
A source: TRAINING365.U.
With the arrival of frost and snow, it comes a favorable time for winter sports. One of the most popular in our country is skiing. And if you have not bought skis or relatives, then this article will help you understand the basic criteria of choice.
Skiing is not only the perfect way to spend the weekend, but also a powerful cardiography, in which absolutely all muscle groups are involved. Only in one hour of class skiing, you can burn to 700 calories (for comparison - for the hour of running, you will spend only 540 calories). And so that skating brought a pleasure, it is important to choose to choose the inventory - we will tell you about it now.
How modern crossing skiing are arranged
Each ski has a lower and upper surface, a core, ribs, socks, heel and a truck for the fastening device of the shoe. The lower sliding surface is a worker. Depending on the weather, it must be treated with different ski ointments. It can carved one or more guides of semicircular or trapezoid grooves. On the upper surface there is a platform for mounting mounting. It is on her that your foot is based on. The core is all that is located between the sliding surface and the upper lid. The core is responsible for the main characteristics of the ski: weight and rigidity.
The front of a ski or sock - has a curved outward shape, providing a slight slip in the snow. The back or heel has thickening and strengthened by inclined clina, rounded to reduce braking. He also prevents splitting the ski. The feature of the structure of the specifically cross-country ski is that they have a special weight of the deflection. When the athlete falls on them, they are bend and evenly distribute the body weight on a snow-covered base.
Why it is worth choosing amateur models
Many amateur skiing are suitable for skating both skate and classic style. And since, most likely, this is your first couple, most likely, you still do not know exactly how you will run. The professional inventory is "sharpened" not only under a certain style, but also the weight of the skier and even the specific quality of snow.
Skate skis in short and tougher. Sticks for this style longer than for classics. As for the boot, they are noticeably tougher and have additional lateral support. Accordingly, the classic crossing skiing is longer and softer, their sticks are shorter, and the shoes are softer, as the usual low shoes for walking.
How to choose the width and length of skis
The quality of skiing, speed and convenience when running. Skiing for classical running is usually chosen according to the + 15-25 cm formula for the skier's growth. The harder the athlete, the longer and tougher, he needs skis. Skiing for combined riding should be a little shorter, and if you are immediately looking for a model for the skate stroke, the formula is working here + 5-15 cm to growth. As a rule, the larger the length of the ski, the higher their rigidity. Thus, if the ski-selected skiing is too soft, pick up the model longer. Regarding stiffness I want to say that during the choice you need to be guided by the level of preparation. If he is high, you can safely buy hard skis.
In addition to the length, you must pay attention to the width. If you intend to ride a flat highway, buy extensive skiing, distinguished by high resistance. If you have to ride on ice or on a tight highway, narrow skiing will be the best solution. They are maneuvering and easier for wide analogues.
What is affected by the design of the core
From the type of technology, which is applied to the manufacture of the core in a particular model, the weight and, respectively, the rigidity of the skis depend on the manufacture of the core. The core may consist of a layer of wood laid by glass / carbon fiber and wrapped entirely into it, along the edges limited by plastic (typically) side walls. For example, some ski models from Fischer, when developing a core, AIR CHANNEL technology is used - this is a wooden base with several air channels, which undoubtedly affects the weight of the ski.
There are also cores from foam materials: acrylic and propylene - light type for advanced lovers and training athletes. The cellular structure of the core 2 is also found. The easiest type of core is also used in sports models.
What is the difference between wooden and plastic skiing
Plastic models are characterized by higher strength, compared with wood, and can even be operated in warm weather. As for wooden cross-country skis, it is impossible to use them with the positive indicators of the thermometer. Wooden skiing traditionally lubricated to the ointment over the entire length and warm under the block, and this was enough to prevent returns when driving. Wood structure also contributed to this.
As for plastic models, everything is not so simple here. Having bought them and starting to serve as well as wooden crossing skis, many people are disappointed in the purchase. The fact is that plastic has the best sliding properties, especially compared to wood. Thus, before the trip on such skis, they need to be pretty lubricate with suitable means in certain places, and not everywhere.
How to choose ski for a child
Some parents believe that skiing is a waste of time. Such an opinion is superficial and erroneous. Skiing strengthens the cardiovascular system, develops the vestibular apparatus, temper the children's body. Initially, it is necessary to take into account the growth, weight and age of the child. At first, it is enough to purchase a conventional children's model of natural wood. During the choice, make sure that the model you like has notches - they prevent rollback. If you decide to buy them separately, make sure that the tip is high-quality, the reliability of the support depends on it. Ski mounts are hard, soft and semi-rigid. For children under six years old are suitable models with a soft or semi-rigid version, allowing wearing casual boots or shoes. After 6 years, an adult is suitable in the form of a rigid fastening. Buying skis "on the grow" is not recommended.
How to choose sticks for skiing
With sticks for riding, everything is much simpler - they are also divided into top, medium and low models and have different quality gradations. The stick is more expensive and more professional, it is easier and stronger. But, despite the strength and lack of vibrations when repulsion, it is easy to break through the strike of an acute subject. This often happens on races, when the side and often random ski blow actually cuts out a piece of stick. However, cheap amateur sticks can break any professional, just pushing hard at the start. Rostovka skate sticks is selected as follows: Your height is minus 20 centimeters for skating ski and your height minus 30 centimeters for classic. At the same time, the loaving of sticks can be a little varied depending on your readiness.
Yuri Alisievich, shopping portal Shop.by
A complete list of already written: about skis for dummies 1. Entry. Okay for teapots 2. Theoretical part. About skis for dummies 3. Selecting skis. About skiing for dummies 4. General information about fasteners. NN75, SNS, NNN? About skiing for teapots 5. Selection of shoes. But skiing for dummies 6. Clothing. Owls for teapots 7. Features of buying a ski bu inventory .O Schec for teapots 8. Comparative ski test from different weight categories.
And hello again. For our libez. Today we reached the choice of skis.
Typical picture, what is what?
The first thing we need to do is to decide which we pursue the goal where and how to ride. There is a predictable pattern, the more we want, the more serious inventory requirements, above the amount, but also you need the best physical training and more diligence! Since you are a novice, you do not have any knowledge of neither training, then the task of the first set of inventory that you acquire is to end by the time when you go to the next level and not to discover desire. This is a natural process, you do not need to be afraid of this. In Russia, in contrast to Europe, the skneal move is more popular. I do not quite understand why. From the point of view of physiology, it is unnatural for a person. From the point of view, it is more complicated. The ski move is demanding of the quality of the trail training. Well, of course, yes, it is easier from the point of view of ski lubrication, and with the right technique faster, it is probably the only advantages. In recent times, I even often hear the advice, start from the skate stroke. I do not agree, and I recommend starting from the classics.
Conditionally divide the skis on the price range, as not to twist and the price decides 1 budget skis to ~ 5-6 thousand rubles. Almost fully walking skiing, only at the upper boundary can meet sports models. Middle segment from ~ 5 to ~ 18 thousand rubles. Most sports models, although at the bottom boundary there are advanced models of pleasure skiing, and the top border can also be top skiing on discounts. The upper segment can be hounded from ~ 18-20 thousand rubles. And above. It is all very approximately, and prices for 20 years.
Immediately I say how not to choose ski and why.
When buying inexpensive skis, you should not look at the brand. Very rude. There are so-called manufacturers of the first echelon Fisher, an atomic, Rosinyl, Madshus, Salomon. The world elite is enjoyed by these brands, they are at all hearing. It is only necessary to understand that I say Farms for the conditional 5-6 thousand will be worse than the tees for the same money. And in general it will be that they are made in Russia in Russia at one plant with budget skiing from Auchan, and on them the same plastic, the same filling, and the whole difference in design and price.
Many, unfortunately, are forced to choose skiing with a loan to a wallet, and often at the lowest price (budget group). Unfortunately, they can only be considered conventionally, the main problem of cheap skiing
This is not skiing Their softness, in the last record, I described the requirements for skiing, who did not read-read. Almost all cheap ski is very easily pushing, they are usually called "clappers." In general, this is not skiing and snowshoes. But if your goal is just walking through the winter forest, that is, they stupidly need snow windows - why not))
Other opposite, sometimes you have to see how obviously the newcomer buys skis, whether it pays a lot of miserly, or just a person get used to take everything top (otherwise "status" shakes), and buys the upper models. I agree, they are better, but not for you! The inventory must match your level, and not to run too far. The first top skis sharpen under athletes with excellent equipment and physical fitness. If skiing is specified by the weight of the skier 70kg, then for the beginner it will be too hard skis. As a result, you will not only not discover the potential of these skis, but you will also be ineffectively ride and slowly progress! Yes, ski lungs, fast, responsive. And now they get a novice and begins to master the technique. What happens? In the process of mastering technology, you need to feel your movements, each phase. And you have skis at that moment they will fly forward so that you do not understand anything and do not have time for them. Also, you can not fully sell for the shock. But the same, in the inexperience, the top skis is easier to kill, they are more fragile when falling, and the properties of expensive plastic will almost certainly be asked for the end of the season if you are paraffin skis on your own and cheat it. Remember what task in the first skis, it will still happen!
If you are used to weighing everything in advance and explore, and if you read it, it is most likely that it is possible. We go to the official sites of manufacturers, and we look at how skis and their hierarchy are labeled with different manufacturers, it is warful that in the store you did not hang noodles on the ears. But it makes sense at a ski budget in the area of 10 thousand.
But what to do if there is little money? Shopping and sort out all skis according to the conditions described. Among the new inexpensive skis personally, I would consider the upper models: Tisa Race Cup, Sable Pro Classic and Brados Pro Skate. The price of TIS is usually around 5 thousand, and Sabli / Brados is even less. Specifically, this is the upper models of budget brands, and at the factory in Mukachevo, not only the tees are produced in Mukachevo, and at the factory in Balabanovo (STC) in general, half of world brands, and almost half of the bulk bulk ski in the world. I'm already confused, which was not there. So, I have a Sable Pro Skate, and they work as 300% its price, but it is clear that this does not apply to all skiing STC and not to all tees. Unfortunately did not ride on these tees, although I would like to compare, but very many athletes praise them.
There is another option, constantly monitor ad sites. But here you need to quickly respond at the same time and easily in the subject, because the used market is extremely not predictable, you can dwell the top at a good price, but you can rush on the firewood more expensive on the store. Top skiing of the Cup The world "Well, so it was in fact, 20 years ago! And to ask for them 10-15 thousand. This is job! But for 2-3 thousand, subject to a normal state, why not, there is a very good alternative to budget skiing.
What is still worth paying attention to when buying? We come to the store and mentally compress the options that are not suitable for the price. Dealer we look at the appointment: the more we assume the unprepared tracks, the more ski. The width of sports skis is usually not more than 44mm, pleasure skiing usually wider ~ 50mm of various kinds of tourist or backed skiing is even wider, 60-70- ... and then> 100, but this is another steppe. Now in the lower price segment it is almost impossible to buy classic skis without Wash. There is a compromise that makes it possible not to use ointments, but absolutely kill slip. So we think about whether to take them. If you don't want to smear ointments, I don't want to look at skis with Camus (even I advise you to see them on them), such models according to my observations begin from 5 thousand. If there is no money, but I want a normal sliding, understand with the masses, are looking for classic skiing without notes, we can consider Kombi's skis as classic. Dealer we put the suitable skiing suitable for us.
Maximum Rostov Ski
For the classics it was customary to choose skiing on an elongated hand, there is a advice to add to the growth of 20-30 cm. I advise you to start not to take maximum rosy, that is, the growth of + 20cm will be optimal in terms of convenience. For the skate to growth add 5-15 cm, long skiing There will be chain heels so they are shorter. And with a weak technique, the more the problem and with the cling of heels, and possibly socks for the edges of the route. Because the first ski skiing take no higher than 10 cm on growth, it will facilitate the development of technology. Combined skis does not exist, accept this fact! If it is not clear, we return to the previous entry again and compare the requirements for the skating and classical ski. In fact, this is just a trick of marketers, because we immediately define what we need, in the extreme case, you can use Khi as classic skis. As I already advised, it is worth starting to develop a ski with the classics, but the choice still remains for you.
We test the selected options for rigidity, the simple method is relevant for the average people: the classic skiing ski slightly below the center of mass, by 5-10 cm. And try to squeeze first with one hand, then two, skiing should be closed only when compressed by two hands. Connecting skis - when compressed with two hands under the block, the gap should remain at least 1-2mm. If there were no suitable ski among the selected skis, you can see the Rostovka slightly more or a little less, the main thing is to remain in the recommended limits of the more accurate method, it will take a smooth (and clean) floor, and assistant with a piece of paper. Like skis, we get on them with two legs, an assistant with a paper sheet checks the zone under which the leaf is fluently moved, so it is flimsy long blocks, if the leaflet under the foot is being shutter These skis are suitable for classics. For the skate, respectively, under one foot, a non-clad shod should remain.
Approximately for understanding the principles and sizes of the pad
The upper models are made for different weight, are dim in the factory, and have the appropriate labeling, mass models have rigidity on the average weight of the weight for each ROSTOK. But there are models for heavy people, though they are usually not cheap.
It is also worth looking at the material of the sliding surface about which I already told. Still, I advise you to take high molecular weight joint ventures, let it from the simplest but not extruded joint venture. If there is no version of the plastic extruded, then, accordingly, do not succumb to sellers, and do not spend money on paraffin.
It is also worth viewing skis to defects: all sorts of chip, detachment, the same skis in a pair, and so that the screw is not.
When buying a used ski, first of all we study what we found. We try to find out what the year they are, what kind of model, if these are tops, you know in advance where and in what form the rigidity is indicated. In case of examination, of course, we check the sliding surface, if you can still live with single longitudinal scratches, with an adequate discount of course, then with transverse (diagonal) not so everything is smooth, shallow scratches, even if there are many of them, they are removed by grinding, but here too, it is necessary to understand that The thickness of the plastic is not infinite, the grooves at grinding also decreases, and they will have to give money for grinding. When buying expensive skis, it's worth seeing how many times they grinded, it can be seen either on the sock, usually not grinding from the tip or by the residual depth of the groove. No one wants to buy rolled and polished for 5-7 times skis at the price of ideal. So all this entails at least a comparable discount. In general, without experience it is difficult to see all the nuances, because I do not advise you to buy a high-level ski ski. And budget options come across very decent. You can take a good, almost new set of initial level for 3-5 thousand. And perhaps a little more advanced to ~ 10 thousand. Skiing, fastenings, shoes. For the price in the store 1.5-2-3 times higher. Of course, before buying, check that this is true.
As for the skis themselves, everything seems to be. Perhaps that I did not remember, if there is a good question, add.
P.S. In the first entry, I expressed the idea that if we carry out different skis in some conditions. I will test I, and my comrade, physically strong but without ski technology. And that's what I have:
Some of the cheapest Nordway, typical skiing for beginners. Almost top Rossignol, season 19-20. And already old 16 year old Sable.
Two pairs are sharpened under the horse, one more declared as a combo. So they will compete in the skate.
How enough snow will fall, compare.
I heard that wooden skis do not slide if they are not smeared, but the plastic on the contrary, they slide so that it is impossible to push off if they are not smeared. :) Well, and cheap plastic skis cannot be made good with ointments, but wooden is possible.
7 years ago
And I as a skier I think that there are better than plastic skis. I get up on plastic skis and I'm going practically in any weather. And my wooden skis dust in the far corner, because they constantly need to be lubricated, because the snow sticks to them, they also go slower. And not any ointment is suitable for wooden skis. Good plastic skiing are both high-speed skiing, and in lubrication in most weather conditions do not need (although it depends on how to ride), and sold on almost every corner (in contrast to wooden, which can be purchased to order, and, accordingly, the price of them will be significantly higher than plastic).
3 weeks ago
If we are talking about comparing plastic cross-country ski with wooden tread ski skiing, then plastic slide better. But the cross-country wooden ski slides is not much worse, the more weighing they are even lighter than plastic. As well as in the width, the same narrow as plastic. But problems here are:
1) At the beginning of spring, when the air temperature is from 0 degrees and above, wooden skis must be lubricated by ointment, otherwise they do not glide on wet and lipomy snow. Plastic slides without ointment always, including in the spring.
2) Wooden skiing is desirable to smalle. Plastic cleaner do not need.
3) Plastic skis are more durable and durable.
And if you are professional athlete, of course better plastic, or fiberglass skiing.
[26.5K] For crossing races, of course plastic indispensable. It is very convenient when riding a skate move, although now probably a classic stroke is used except at the Olympics. But for simple walks, especially in the woods, where the snow is a deeper Luha choose wooden. Although they are now unlikely to find
Victor — [79K]
Better wooden skis. Only not glued, which are made from solid wood. They get thin and durable, the ends of the skis are soaked in hot water, they are stuffed, and then skis burn fire. Such skis are not cracked, the legs do not hurt them, you can take a hundred kilometers and serve for many years.
Rogneda. — [79K]
Do you still produce wooden skis? In my opinion, around one plastic.
7 years ago
Such skis only individual people can do. On some skis, you need to spend one tree, cut it out along.
4 years ago
Plastic more modern, heard that they better slide. But ... We studied to walk on wooden skis and, I think, for those who first fall on skis, it is better to start with them. And our advice on specialists and professionals, they themselves will figure it out.
I certainly not a specialist, but in my opinion plastic skis is much more convenient and better in operation. They greatly slide and honestly speaking wooden skis I have not seen for a long time on sale. Surprisingly, they are still sold)) — [79K]
 — [79K]
3 years ago